Sunday, July 30, 2017

Travel Guide: Positano and Amalfi Coast

Visiting Picturesque Positano

Positano is a place that I had been dreaming of for a few years. When I finally got there, it was a magical, colourful place that lived up to all of the pictures I had seen in travel magazines.



Positano is such a romantic destination with incredible views, friendly people and so much character. I'm sure once you visit, you will fall in love with this picturesque town, just like I did.

Here I'm sharing my favourite finds for when you visit Positano.

Where to Stay

Finding a place to stay was a little tricky here. The town is built into the side of a cliff so there are lots of stairs. This can be tricky when you are lugging bags around to find your bed and breakfast.

I'd suggest finding a place right off of the main road. The bus from Sorrento will stop here and you won't have to carry your bags too far. Trust me, in the summer heat, rolling bags on cobblestone is not a fun task. Keep it mind, it can at times be uphill!



Speaking of the bus- be prepared for a crazy ride along narrow mountain roads. The drivers here are confident and navigate expertly along the hairpin turns.

The road to Positano

But I feel I must warn you- you will be scared, you may feel dizzy, you might find your religion along the way--but you WILL make it to Positano.

What to do


Explore 

Positano is the perfect central point to explore the Amalfi area. Take a ferry to Capri and spend the day swimming in the crystal blue waters. Take the bus up to Anacapri for beautiful views or you can hire a water taxi to show you around (much more economical than taking a "tour boat").

Amazing - this is the natural colour of the water around Capri

Colourful Capri
You can take a bus to Ravello to enjoy the picturesque mountain/sea views or explore Amalfi town. If you can't fit it all into your trip - pick one!


This is the land of slow- living. Part of enjoying your time here involves embracing that mindset. Walk around, talk to locals and shop the markets - it's the best way to get a feel for their way of life here.



Take a Hike 

One of the most memorable hikes I've ever taken has been in Positano. They call it the "Path of the Gods" because the views are just heavenly!




We rode the local SITA bus (Sorrento to Amalfi line) up to where the path begins in Agerola.

Side note: I've actually come across many tour companies selling "private transfers" up to Agerola for 120 Euro a person. You don't need this! Travel like a local and you will only be out about 3 Euro a person from Positano - maybe 20 Euro a person from Sorrento.



Once we arrived at the top we proceeded to hike down the many stairs. There were more than 1000 steps down but the views were spectacular.

I love photography and was able to capture shots from some incredible vantage points on the way down through Nocelle and then to Positano.


At the end, my legs legitimately felt like jello! The path isn't too strenuous if you are in good shape but it's best to start at the top and walk down. Take lots of water with you and wear proper athletic shoes.




Have a Beach Day

The main beach is Spiaggia Grande. This is the one you've surely seen pictures of. It's nestled at the foot of the iconic Positano village and hosts rows and rows of coloured umbrellas.

In this part of Italy, you won't find sandy beaches. The beaches here are pebbly coves- it's a good idea to bring water shoes!



This beach gets pretty busy. There's a free section in the middle, where you can put your towel down and enjoy the waves. If you are looking to spend the day, consider renting a sunbed or umbrella for shade - you will need it! Two sunbeds and an umbrella were about 20-30 Euro/day when I last visited.

You can also check out a quieter beach that is just one cove over from the main one. Fornillo beach also has sunbeds and umbrellas for rent and can be reached by water taxi or by car. If you drive however, you should know it's about 300 steps down and then back up to the main road.



Check out the Nightlife

Positano is a sleepy town and truly there's not much going on here past 10pm. If you are a night owl however, you will find a club, "Music on the Rocks" at the end of the beach. This is a spot with an exclusive vibe and pricey drinks. It gets busy around one am and truthfully, after a long day at the beach, I couldn't stay up that late. The vibe and ambience was really nice for a night out however.

Where to Eat 

Rada 

On the second floor above "Music on the Rocks" you will find Rada. We stumbled upon this restaurant when we were done with Italian food (this was at the tail end of our trip). Seeing sushi on the menu, we were in! This is a Michelin star restaurant and everything we had here was delicious.


The view of Positano was breathtaking from here and we found it to be the perfect place to watch the sunset while sipping the most delicious cocktails. Seriously- my hubby and I still talk about these cocktails 3 years later! We had a prossecco based drink with rosemary simple syrup, elderflower and grapes- it was unforgettable.

I'd highly recommend having at least a few cocktails up here for a very special view and that "pinch me, I'm here" experience.


The Brasserie at Covo Dei Saraceni

This is a cute little bistro at the Hotel Covo Dei Saraceni. It's right at the edge of Spiaggia Grande so it's pretty easy to find. We stopped here for a coffee and a lemon sorbet that we will never forget. This is a must eat while you are in Positano.


The sorbet is made from fresh local lemons and served in one too, for a beautifully picturesque and satiating icy treat on a hot day. Order your own - you won't want to share.




Capricci 

While I was in Positano, I ate twice at Capricci. They have two restaurants - one full service restaurant in the alley next to the beach and on the floor above, there's a take out, deli-style restaurant.



I visited the take out restaurant to get grilled veggies and a Caprese salad to eat at the beach and had appetizers (eggplant baked with tomatoes, cheese and basil and grilled calamari) with drinks at the full service restaurant.

I appreciated the healthier options of salads and lots of veggies on their menu as I needed a change from the pasta and pizza. The food we had was delicious but I've read some negative reviews about service. In my experience, both their restaurants were great for a quick, healthy and delicious bite.

Da Adolfo 

Dining at Da Adolfo is by far one of my favourite food and travel memories. You need a reservation - so plan ahead if you plan to visit this beach side restaurant.


This restaurant is located on its own secluded beach and is a short water taxi ride away from the main beach.



The restaurant has its own boat/shuttle service with a red fish sign on the top. hop in the boat and take in the glorious views of Positano from the water. Then- have a meal of a life time!

This is one of those beach restaurants where you will see more locals than tourists. The food here is a celebration of slow-cooking and slow-living. Everything is made fresh daily and the menu changes based on what the fisherman brings in.



Here you will see one menu - on  a chalkboard at the front of the restaurant and that's how you know it's the real deal. My husband and I enjoyed a 3 hour long lunch here and just sat and ordered course by course, enjoying all the fresh foods and flavours.






Afterwards, we hung out on their secluded little beach before taking the shuttle back to the port. Back your swimsuits and some towels and make a day of your visit to Da Adolfo. In my opinion, this is a must-do experience while you are in Positano.



Planning your visit

Positano is such a unique and beautiful destination you can't help but fall in love with it. It's perfect for a two - three day stay, or make your base in lively Sorrento and then make day trips to see this beautiful coastal town. I remember my time here so fondly and really can't wait to go back. Hope you love it just as much as I do.

If you've visited before, I'd love to hear your tips too! Leave me a comment below or join me on Instagram @angeliesood

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